Monday, 19 November 2012

Kerala Style Sweet and Spicy Prawn Fry



 

The original Malayali name for this dish is Eruvum Madhuravum Ulla Chemmeen Varathathu. I now challenge you to say that fast ten times :) 

Malayalam is a pretty complicated language, and a lot of Kerala dishes have very complicated names. My favourite South Indian restaurant in Liverpool, Maharaja, had a delicious Kerala aubergine curry on the menu, one that Kay just adored, and it was called  Vazuthanangapal curry. Poor Kay always struggled to order it. Though he just told me that they've taken it off the menu now... perhaps no one ordered it because of its name! 

I loved growing up on the Indian coast. Fish days were always exciting, and dad would load up on fresh fish, crabs, clams and prawns straight off the dock. Mum would spend the afternoon cleaning the fish, deveining and portioning up prawns and crabs and on clam days we almost always had a delicious clam and dumpling curry or clams with coconut. I really miss the fish and seafood of my childhood, and now I am unfortunate enough to live in a landlocked province, I miss it even more. Ocasionally we are lucky enough to get fresh clams or fish, but I am almost always too impatient to make the slow curries of my childhood and I end up steaming and eating it in a hurry, which I guess is a real shame. 

That said, in India, we didn't normally experiment wildly with different dishes from various parts of the country. Indian cuisine is very regional, and its not often that home cooks venture out of their comfort zone. So most of the food we ate was very much traditional, and it was rare to get a taste of a different region, let alone different countries (maybe the odd Chinese food, but to be honest, the Chinese food we ate was as far away from traditional Chinese cuisine... as, well, the moon is from the earth? Hehe) It was only once I grew up and moved to university that I tried out European food, and I still recall my first taste of Italian food... which again, was very different from the traditional Italian food that I eventually ended up eating in Italy :) 

But mum was a school teacher in Kerala, also known as God's own country... so we did get some very Keralite food on ocasion. My paternal grandfather was also from Kerala, one of the older plantation owners there, but moved to Mangalore to be with my grandmother. Sadly many of his recipes are no longer with us, as no one thought to write them down thanks to the expectation that Indian recipes would always be passed down through the oral tradition... again, something that has now, sadly, been lost. But that something I am aiming to change. My notebook is now full of old Indian recipes that I hope that I will have the time to make and test soon. 

 

That said, this recipe comes from an excellent book that I was recently sent from India. On ocasion, I get my sister and mum to send me a care package, mainly general items from India that are not available here, like these coconut shell ladles in the pictures for this post, some lovely sandalwood soaps and such like... 

This time round I got them to send me a ton of older cookbooks, and my mum sent me this excellent book called The Essential Kerala Cookbook by Vijayan Kannampilly. I already own a few books in this collection, all published by Penguin India, and I've never had a dud recipe ever. Which is really saying something... I do adapt these recipes though, since they make no concession to the less spice tolerant palate, but on the whole I love making these dishes as my everyday meals for the family. 

The recipe for these sweet and spicy prawns jumped up out at me when I was reading through the book, and I almost could taste these just from the ingredients. Kannampilly calls this a Christian dish, and I agree, as I have had numerous variations of this dish in my own home. But as prawn dishes go, this is now up there for me as one of the favourites. Its almost too easy and unbelievably quick to prepare, usually taking me less than 20 minutes to make. I start my rice at the same time as the prawns, and when the rice is done, the prawns are sizzling. Add a light salad and that's supper sorted in less than 30 minutes. Now that's what I call a winner of a recipe. 

And the flavours? Well, let me put it this way... the first time I made this, my husband, him of the jaded-not-another-for-the-blog-recipe palate, went 'Wow!!! Mich, this is delicious... what on earth did you do to those prawns?'  So that's a success, I take it? 

The taste is delicious with complex flavours all melding into each other. Considering that this dish has only red chillies as the major spice, that's really saying something. But for me, this is the ultimate comfort food. Sweet, spicy, tangy and fresh, with the fragrance of curry leaves... its a dish that defines Kerala, and the beautiful coast I grew up on. And that's magical, indeed.




Recipe: 


Serves 4 - 6 as a side dish 
Adapted from Vijayan Kannampilly's 'The Essential Kerala Cookbook' 

1 bag (400g) large frozen prawns, peeled, but ideally with the tails left on, thawed
2 tablespoons coconut oil (or any other unscented oil) + a little extra
1 large onion, diced fine
2 small tomatoes, diced fine
1 teaspoon sugar  

Marinade

1 inch piece of ginger, finely chopped
3 - 4 teaspoons red wine vinegar
½ teaspoon ground turmeric 
Salt to taste 

Spice paste

5 long mild red chillies (or 1 - 2 tablespoons mild Kashmiri chilly powder, see spice paste instructions)
About ½ cup hot water
4 - 5 cloves of garlic, crushed

Garnish

1 tablespoon coconut or unscented oil
10 - 15 curry leaves

Method: 

Marinate the prawns -  Place the thawed, cleaned prawns in a bowl, and add the ginger, red wine vinegar, turmeric and about 1 teaspoon of salt (or to taste) Place in the fridge for at lease 1 hour.

Make the spice paste -  Soak the dried chillies in the hot water, topping up with a little extra, if required for about 5 - 10 minutes. Drain, reserving the water. Blend to a fine paste with the garlic cloves, adding about 2 tablespoons of the reserved chilli soaking water, or as required to make a loose spice paste. Keep aside. Or - place the mild Kashmiri chilli powder in a bowl, add the crushed garlic and water to make a spice paste. Reduce water to 1/4 cup if making this version.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil, and add the onions and tomatoes. Fry together for about 5 minutes, then remove to a bowl and keep aside. 

Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in the same pan. Add the prawns and marinade, and fry on a high heat until the prawns just turn pink. Take off the heat, and remove to another bowl. 

Reduce the heat and add the spice paste to the pan, and fry for about 3 - 4 minutes, stirring constantly, and adding a little more oil, if required. 

Add the onions and tomatoes to the pan, and fry together for another 4 - 5 minutes. 

Stir in the prawns and fry together for another 2 - 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt. 

Stir in the sugar, and adjust seasoning to your taste. 

To make the garnish, heat 1 tablespoon oil in a small pan, and toss in the curry leaves. Sizzle for about 30 - 40 seconds, then pour over the whole thing into the prawn fry.




11 comments:

  1. Love those ladles!!!! At first I thought they were bowls :) Prawns look delicious! I grew up in Toronto but our meals were majority of time Hyderabadi food. The days my mom would make burgers or lasagna or pizza were exciting days! I try to write down my mom's recipes so we can keep the Hyderabadi food tradition...blogging is a great way to do that!

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  2. Sounds delicious! My entire life I have lived by the sea. I can't imagine not having easy access to fresh seafood. Even a trip to Toronto where I stay on the lake makes me antsy - it's not the same. It doesn't smell right.
    I'm almost positive Ethan has a coconut ladle. And if I recall, he bought it in Toronto the day him and Mardi and I all met for the very first time! I'll have to ask him if I'm remembering that right!

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  3. Incredible pictures, Michelle! And LOVE your dishes! When I saw prawns, I was IN! I have been meaning to write you a note to congratulate you on the cookie contest for Eat In Eat Out. If you had done your bears, you would have won first place!!!!
    :)
    Valerie

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  4. I recently finished my culinary degree and I am looking forward to diving into Indian cuisine. I was surprised when it wasn't a culinary culture taught, or really referenced for the most part. I absolutely love trying new flavor profiles with ingredients that I am thoroughly familiar with (I grew up in the southern united states, onions, tomatoes, garlic, and chili are common in my dishes). Thanks for the inspiration, it will certainly be used to the absolute best of my abilities.

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  5. Those prawns are actually making my mouth water!

    It's so interesting to read about growing up with just one type of cuisine and then branching out later in life. I love living in Canada and enjoying a different type of cuisine almost everyday (although I do wish there was more fresh seafood in Alberta too.. booooo)

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  6. I am always very careful about the shrimp(prawn) that I buy ... Maine shrimp are my favorite! I love Indian cuisine and am always so pleased with the way the spices and vegetable sauces combine for the final taste ... this recipe looks just wonderful!

    You always have such interesting fare here at The Tiffin Box, Michelle!

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  7. Tried this dish for dinner and made it with some brown rice, it was absolutely divine. You have a new fan :)

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  8. they are so mouth watering and is perfect with a side of rice.

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  9. I suspect you can also tell this is a Christian dish from the addition of vinegar--would I be right?

    I am excited to try this recipe. I also have to tell you that when you write about your childhood/family in india, well, those are your best posts. Outstanding. I love that kind of food writing... as I may have mentioned to you before. :)

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  10. I discovered your site accidentally, but never though that it would proved so worthful for me. Prawn the name itself make water in my mouth.

    Cheese food

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  11. Had this for the first time When went to Kerala for the summer and still It's in my taste buds.

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